The Night she disappeared
By Christopher Mathews
“The captain who thinks he is master of the sea is a fool. She is a cruel and fickle mistress who cannot be trusted. But once she has cast her spell, holds men in her net of wonder forever." *
Distress
flares were seen around midnight somewhere off Old Hobb’s Point. Another
ship in trouble was battling a frozen angry sea.
In
the year 1859, fierce winter storms battered the
Late
in the evening a farmer was searching for lost sheep on the clifftops in spite
of the gale. Sometimes, frightened sheep are driven over the precipice in panic
during a storm. The stark white outline of the floundering ship was caught as
the lightning flashed above Old Hobb’s Stack. The awful sight of the
beleaguered ship fighting to keep herself from being gored on the rocks, was
forever branded on his mind.
Her
shredded sails were useless, as she was being driven before the wind and surf. There
would be little chance to tack out to the relative safety of the open sea. It
would mean certain death to send his weary crew aloft to set new canvas.
If
she could only run before the wind to the safety of Falsehaven Cove, just two
miles beyond the point, they may be able to save her. If not, she would be
gored on the reef of Old Hobb. Once in his teeth, Old Hobb does not let go.
Falsehaven
is no place to overwinter but “any port in a storm” is no metaphor along this
rugged coast. Falsehaven is not named thus for no reason.
Leaving
his sheep, the farmer ran down into the small fishing village calling,
“Shipwreck,
off Old Hobb,” to the small fishermen’s cottages scattered along the street.
Nothing forges such strong bond in a small community as fishermen whose very lives are repeatedly in one another’s hands. The sea calls to each of them for their livelihood, but they each call on one another for their lives.
Branok was the young
skipper of his great granfer’s old Dorset fishing Lugger the Henryetta, and crew
in the Falsehaven lifeboat. He was also
a brand-new father, just that day. The townsfolk were all celebrating with him in
the Luggerman’s Rest. The storm
shutters of the tavern were battened down against the gale, it was long after
licencing hours. The fishermen of Falsehaven supped on their ale deep into the
night.
After
midnight, above the sound of the men singing, the chapel bell rang out, a clear
and piercing sound, cutting through the gale and the fog of pipe tobacco. It
called the Lifeboatmen to trespass once again into the sea’s treacherous domain
when she is most angry.
As
soon as Branok’s wife heard the bell toll she knew what it could mean for her. Her
newborn baby cried, and she nursed her, wrapped in her strong warm embrace. More
than ships are dashed on the rocks of Old Harry in a storm. But it would be no
use pleading with her husband, she knew him too well. All the wives knew that
the fishermen of
On
leaving the warmth of the tavern, the men all touched the sign above the inn’s
door for good luck, some muttered a prayer, or snatches of a hymn. The sign read,
“God save our souls.” Each would need whatever courage God will supply if they
were to see their loved ones again before the Great day of Judgement, “when the
sea shall give up her dead.” Branok thought
of his young wife Endelyn and new daughter Rosenwyn,
“What
would become of them if...” But it does not do to dwell on such things before a
rescue.
But
there were others too, whose greedy eyes were on the floundering ship. They
light beacons along the beach, but not to guide her home to safety. They are
not intent on saving souls, they have a different prize in mind.
The
Wesleyan Chaple, at the high end of
The
tavern is a conveniently short stagger from the harbour wall, where the boats
tie up to unload their catch. But the chapel is a slow, hard climb up the long
steep
On a bright, cloudless, day you can look down on Falsaven
Cove from the clifftops, with a score of fishing luggers drying their sails and
nets in the gentle summer breeze, mirrored in the surface of the deep azure
sea. You may catch scraps of a sea chanty as the men haul the boats up the
stony beach.
The
farmer who ploughs the soil may believe the sea is just water, but the
fishermen who ploughs the ocean knows not to trust her, even when she is in
this mood. On such a day the rugged weatherbeaten cliffs are the only clue that
the sea is a fickle mistress who does not yield willingly. She gives up her wriggling,
glittering jewels reluctantly and demands a high price from those who would forage
in her deep waters.
The
fishing boats of the town are often crewed by three generations of men. Their
faces, hands and temperament reflect the weatherbeaten crags, with tufts of
thick wiry beard like the tussock grass which grows among the rocks. Boys must become
men the day they leave school. Every family in Falsehaven has lost someone to
the sea, some have lost several generations.
On
this night the whole town gathered on the quayside to watch their menfolk row
out through the relative safety of Falsehaven Cove and on into the pounding
surf and treacherous waves heading towards the reef of Old Hobb’s Point. The little
boat looked like an insect, a water-boatman in a maelstrom. To the small children, their fathers are
mighty men who can battle the fierce seas, their wives know better. “Come, my
little ones, the chapel bell is calling us to prey for your pappa and granfer.”
The
skipper of the Sir William Hillary knew there was little hope if the
stricken ship did not clear the Point. That night’s catch would bring little
joy to anyone.
Rowing hard, they approached under
the sheltered lee of the cliffs, which stood landward of Old Hobb’s Stack. On
rounding the point, there she was, broken in two on the unyielding rocks. Three
of her four masts were gone, the aft deck smashed by the surf and her inners
spilled out from the rip in her side. Branok, who was at the helm gasped at the site, “Poor
souls”
Men could be seen on the foredeck
clinging to the bow sprit and shrouds, some torn between jumping into the surf
or staying with the ship until her inevitable ruin. On seeing the lifeboat, the
crew all cheered with a new sense of hope rising above their despair. The stranded
sailors quickly rigged a Bosun's chair from the stump of the foremast and shot
a line down to the lifeboat. Once the line was secure, the crew were rescued
one by one. Seven of her crew were saved that night. Two who had jumped, were
plucked directly from the sea itself, but the rest were lost, swept from her
deck like bar skittles. Branok thought of what Jesus had said to St. Peter
the fisherman,
“Come
follow me, and I will make you a fisher of men.”
Just
seven souls were saved from a crew of about twenty, and what had become of her
captain, the sea make not such distinctions.
By
morning the worst of the storm had blown itself out. That day’s low tide would
be a grim harvest of worthless cargo among infinitely valuable lost souls.
Every
man and boy on that lifeboat knelt at the alter rail of the little chapel to
give thanks for bringing them home safely. Their womenfolk had spent the night
on their knees on that same spot. The small congregation, including the seven
men who were rescued, spontaneously broke into Horatio Spafford's hymn It is
well with my soul.
The following afternoon was bright and clear although the sea was still rough. From high up on Old Hobb’s Point nothing could be seen of the ship, but the grim flotsam on the beach.
© Christopher Mathews, June 2024
*Adapted from a work by Jacques Yves Cousteau.